• Date - 05/18/2012
  • Elevation - 14,148'/14,238'/14,286'
  • Route - North Face/Democrat Traverse/Cameron Traverse
  • Miles - 9.0
  • Elevation Gain - 3,644'
  • ACME Mapper - Link
  • CalTopo - Link
  • Partners - Not Applicable


I couldn't find a hiking partner for Friday, so I decided to attempt a mellow snow climb that was on my to do list.  I had not been to Mount Democrat since 2003, and I started hiking from Montgomery Reservoir at 5:30.  I hiked up the drainage north of Mount Lincoln on a relatively dry road with minimal snow for over two miles.  As I turned southwest below Wheeler Lake, I left the road and my objective came into view as I began to hike on firm snow the rest of the way up the valley.  I was initially going to climb the North Couloir on Mount Democrat.  However, as I got closer to the base of the mountain, it became apparent that there was a continuous snow line straight up the north face that was longer than the couloir and would take me directly to the summit.

After determining that it was within my abilities, I decided to climb the north face direct which ended up being a really fun and long snow climb.  I made the summit of Democrat and then traversed to Cameron and Lincoln before descending east in the Lincoln Amphitheater and making my way back down to Montgomery Reservoir at 1:00.  Snow conditions on the approach and up the shallow couloir were in good conditions for late May on a north face.


Mount DemocratMount DemocratApproachStart of the snow climb.Looking down the initial constriction of the route.Looking up the route.Valley I hiked to the peak.ScrambleKicking StepsFinal section to the summit.ProgressMount Lincoln and Mount Cameron from Mount DemocratMount Arkansas North CouloirSummit Photo (Mount Democrat)Mount Democrat and the snow climb I had just completed.Summit Photo (Mount Cameron)Mount Democrat and Mount Cameron from Mount LincolnThe couloir on the east face of Mount Lincoln I climbed a month ago.