Lincoln Falls (13)/Mount Lincoln (2)


Statistics

  • Date - 04/13/2012
  • Elevation - 14,286'
  • Route - Lincoln Falls/East Face Couloir
  • Miles - 4.0
  • Elevation Gain - 3,400'
  • ACME Mapper - Link
  • CalTopo - Link
  • Partners - Kevin Smith, John Balciar

Description

Inspired by recent reports from George Barnes, John, Kevin, and I decided to attempt our own Colorado Triathlon.  This event was to contain ice climbing, rock climbing, and mountain biking.  We ended up adding some snow climbing/mountaineering/peak bagging for good measure.  We started at 6:00 at the Montgomery Reservoir.  We first climbed two pitches of ice up the Lincoln Falls main gully at the base of Mount Lincoln.  After clearing the ice, we stashed the ropes and rack and started hiking up the Lincoln Amphitheater towards Mount Lincoln.  We gained only a few hundred feet when I spied a continuous snow line on the east face of Mount Lincoln.  Both John and Kevin agreed that it might go, so we continued up the valley to the base of the snow climb and decided to give it a shot.

The snow was in great condition and the couloir was extremely fun climbing.  The direct route to the summit was moderately steep with three constrictions that were easily climbed.  After 800' of snow climbing, we were deposited on Mount Lincoln's east shoulder with approximately 800' yet to climb to the top.  We finished the hike and then took an easier descent route on the south side of the east face back to the base of the amphitheater.  We gathered our gear and finished the hike out to the vehicle.  We had lunch and quickly prepared for part 2 of the triathlon.

Photos

Lincoln FallsKevin leading pitch 1.Kevin leading pitch 1.Kevin leading pitch 1.Kevin leading pitch 1.Kevin leading pitch 1.John following pitch 1.John following pitch 1.John following pitch 1.Kevin at the belay station.KevinJames leading pitch 2.James leading pitch 2.James leading pitch 2.James leading pitch 2.John and Kevin following pitch 2.John and Kevin following pitch 2.John and Kevin following pitch 2.Approach to Mount Lincoln.Approach to Mount Lincoln.Approach to Mount Lincoln.JohnKevinJames starting up the snow climb.Kevin and James heading up the snow.Kevin kicking steps.James and KevinJamesJohnJames and KevinKevinKevin and JamesJohnJamesMount LincolnNearing the summit.Group Summit PhotoJames and Kevin on the summit of Mount Lincoln.John on the summit of Mount Lincoln.DescentDescentMount LincolnRoute