• Date - 07/09/2008
  • Elevation - 12,804'
  • Route - Middle Teton Glacier
  • Miles - 5.0
  • Elevation Gain - 3,204'
  • ACME Mapper - Link
  • CalTopo - Link
  • Partners - Brian Kooienga, Jeff Shafer


After our climb of the Grand Teton, we decided to attempt the Middle Teton via the Middle Teton Glacier.  We wanted to keep our route relatively simply, but the Middle Teton Glacier ended up being one of the steepest snow climbs I have done.  We slept in until 6:00 since our camp was essentially on the apron of the climb.  The initial section of the climb was easy snow climbing to the first major bergshrund where a deep runnel terminated.  From here, we doglegged right and the climbing became steeper to the col between the Dike Pinnacle and Middle Teton.  We took a break at the saddle and viewed the rest of our route.  We avoided another large bergshrund and the climbing remained steep all the way to the notch between the twin-summitted Middle Teton.  There was a short scramble to the summit which we made in about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the Moraine.

We spent 30 minutes on top enjoying the views of the Grand Teton and South Teton.  We descended the Southwest Couloir which takes you to the saddle between the Middle Teton and South Teton.  We hiked back down to the Meadows and had to regain some elevation to get back to our camp.  Our round trip time was 6 hours.  After returning to camp, we packed up and hiked back to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead.  We made good time on the hike out and were glad to have climbed a couple of Teton peaks.

After checking into the Climber's Ranch, we cleaned up and went into Jackson, Wyoming, to eat at the Gun Barrel Steakhouse.  Kevin went with the Single Barrel prime rib (8 oz.), Jeff and I opted for the Double Barrel prime rib (12 oz.), and Brian ate the Grand prime rib (16 oz.).  I was initially concerned that my eyes were bigger than my stomach, but even after a beer and appetizers I think I ate mine in about five minutes.  We even had desert and picked up some beer on the way back to the Climber's Ranch.

Thursday was a rest day.  We went into Jackson, Wyoming, and replaced the battery in Jeff's vehicle and then had breakfast at Bubba's.  Once again, we all ate like kings while drinking coffee and water.  We did a little shopping, checked out the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, and then went on a little road trip to check out more scenery.


Middle Teton from Grand TetonRouteApronJamesLower BergshrundThe middle and upper sections of the route.Kicking StepsBrianJeffBrianUpper BergshrundJeff and JamesLooking back down the route.BrianGrand TetonJeffDescentBrian nearing the saddle between Middle Teton and South Teton.Ellingwood CouloirJeff and James