• Date - 06/11/2010
  • Elevation - 12,500'
  • Route - Southwest Face Route
  • Miles - 8.5
  • Elevation Gain - 3,547'
  • ACME Mapper - Link
  • CalTopo - Link
  • Partners - Brian Kooienga, Kevin Smith


Brian, Kevin, and I attempted the Southeast Face Route on Taylor Peak.  We left the Glacier Gorge Trailhead around 2:30 and made our way past The Loch, Lake of Glass, and Sky Pond.  After crossing below the Petit Grepon, we climbed a moderate snow ramp to the base of the route.  We made it up three rock pitches and got to the steep snow climbing section of the route when we had to bail.  The snow was the consistency of a slurpee with no integrity.  Since the snow wasn't climbable, we rappelled back to the base of the route and headed home.  The first 18 feet of the route is the crux at 5.6.  In crampons it felt harder than that.  Much of the climbing after this was exposed class 3 and 4.


Petit GreponTaylor Peak Southeast FaceRouteSunriseApproachNear the base of the route.Looking down pitch 1.Brian and Kevin following pitch 1.Pitch 3Kevin following pitch 3.RappelGlissade